Whether caused by a lack of sleep or just genetic bad luck, dark under-eye circles are tough to cover up — and nearly every woman has experienced them. Although many makeup artists have suggested using a concealer one shade lighter than your natural skin tone, Napoleon Perdis, makeup artist and eponymous founder of the cosmetics line, says it's quite the opposite.
"Use a creamy concealer that's an exact match to or even slightly darker than your skin tone," Perdis says. "Going a shade lighter will just draw attention to the area and create an ashy tone." Look for a formula that has orange undertones to counteract darkness and purple and blue tones.
Keep in mind when choosing your under-eye concealer that the consistency should be light but creamy. The heavier the consistency, the more likely it is to settle into fine lines and exaggerate flaws.
Try a moisturizing concealer like Clinique All About Eyes ($16). Gently tap the fluid around the eyes and let it dry for a minute or two before blending. If you need an extra boost of brightening, try YSL Touche Éclat ($40), a makeup-artist favorite for its magic-wand-like brightening properties.
When dealing with dreaded pimples, look for a concealer that does double duty, concealing the acne and treating it at the same time. The best options are oil-free with blemish-fighting ingredients like salicylic acid or tea tree oil, says Perdis. Stick formulas can be a good choice because they are thicker and drier, so they tend to offer better coverage.
Murad Acne Treatment Concealer ($21) is a great option — the oil-free stick offers long-lasting coverage and contains salicylic acid to heal breakouts. Or try TheBalm Liquid TimeBalm Spot Concealer ($20) with antimicrobial tea tree oil.
To apply, use a concealer brush — look for one with stiff bristles — and gently dab the formula on the pimple as well as the perimeter. Let it set for approximately one minute. Then, "blend out the edges so you don't see where the concealer meets the skin," adds Perdis. Finish up with a light dusting of loose powder to set the concealer. If the breakout becomes severe, cover with a heavy foundation in a stick formula. "Concealer will only bring attention to the breakout," Perdis says.
A stick concealer is your best bet, says Liz Pugh, a Rimmel celebrity makeup artist. "It won't move around on the skin as much," she explains.
Similarly, Perdis likes using a concealer pen. "For scars that are raised, the pen is perfect because the light texture gives you a smoother coverage," he says. "Also, it won't bring too much attention to the scarring like a creamier concealer would."
Maybelline Cover Stick Waterproof Concealer ($4.99) and Nars Concealer ($22) both go on like a lipstick and cover imperfections with an opaque camouflage.
Before you even think about slathering on foundation or concealer, start covering any lines or wrinkles right after you wash your face. "The rule of thumb for covering fine lines or wrinkles is to initially hydrate and moisturize," explains Perdis. A serum and or moisturizer with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid will fill lines, reducing the need for a heavy concealer. Similarly, your concealer should contain moisturizing properties, "as any other type of concealer will create a cakey effect," Perdis adds. Fresh Umbrian Clay Absolute Concealer ($22) hydrates skin with an algae extract and provides crease-resistant coverage.
Another option? "Try an illuminating foundation as an alternative," suggests Pugh. "Otherwise, wrinkles could be exaggerated if your formula contains heavier ingredients." Try Sonia Kashuk Radiant Tinted Moisturizer ($12.99) for a sheer wash of coverage with a subtle luminizing effect.
These be the result of myriad issues, including (but not limited to) age spots, sun spots, and overall hyperpigmentation. But it's critical to keep in mind that "with uneven tone, you want to correct — not conceal — with complementary colors," explains Perdis.
So rather than slather on a flesh-toned formula, look for one that follows the color wheel and contradicts your skin woes. Got splotchy redness? Opt for a primer with green hues. For purplish areas, select one with golden undertones, suggests Perdis. Physicians Formula Mineral Wear Talc-Free Mineral Correcting Primer ($10.95) offers a green pigment to balance redness as well as a nude option.
And always make sure to use a tinted moisturizer or light foundation to further create that even base, says Pugh. "A good foundation will let you build the coverage you need in certain areas a little more than just using a concealer," she adds. Try a lightweight formula like L'Oreal Paris Magic Smooth Soufflé ($15.95) with a sheer light-reflecting pigment to help blur imperfections.
The key to hiding redness, including rosacea flares, is to avoid further irritating your skin. Sensitive-skin formulations are usually smart choices. And wearing SPF is crucial since sun exposure only aggravates rosacea.
For spot treatment, try Tarte At Ease Micronized Clay Calming Concealer ($30). This combo of cream and powder cover contains soothing aloe and honey to treat irritated skin while it hides red patches. FusionBeauty PrimeResults Anti-Redness Primer ($42) serves as a great allover treatment with calming natural ingredients and inflammation inhibitors.
